Thursday, December 20, 2007

Hi

From all these years of working with jewelry, it always fascinated me that why, some stones called gemstones and others are not? So my search for what is a gemstone, led me to speak with a lot of gem experts, countless hours on the internet and after reading a lot of books, I was able to put together this. I hope you all enjoy this.

A gemstone can defined as a mineral specimen that possesses three qualities, beauty, durability and rarity.

What is beauty of a Gemstone?

When we talk about the beauty of a gemstone, we refer to a combination of many different attributes. The first and foremost is the color, other features include clarity and other optical features.

Color: All minerals contain certain elements because of which they exhibit different colors.

Actual color of gemstone occurs due to the absorption and reflection properties of various elements and impurities present in the mineral. Gemstone color is either idiochromatic, allochromatic, or pseudochromatic.

Idiochromatic coloration is due to the inherent chemical makeup of the mineral, these are also called self colored because the arises due to the inherent chemical.

Allochromatic coloration is due to the presence of impurities within a mineral’s chemical makeup

Pseudochromatic coloration is caused by surface or subsurface reflective properties of the mineral

Color saturation: It takes several years, sometimes hundreds of years for mother nature to form a gemstone. The color of Gemstones is not always evenly saturated, because the color saturation depends on many factors like, pressure, temperature, and chemical concentrations. These factors can cause irregularity, color banding and zoning as the mineral crystallizes.

Clarity: Due of the nature of formation of minerals, a lot of minerals will contain impurities which can be seen with naked eye or with the help of a magnifying loop, these impurities are called inclusions. These impurities not necessarily decrease the value of the gemstone. Gemstones, where you cannot see inclusions with the naked eye are called “eye clean” Gemstones. Gemstones, where you cannot see inclusion with a ten time (10X) magnifying loop are called loop clean.

Optical features: These features play a very important part in determining the value of the gemstone. Some light will get reflected of the surface of the gemstone, the amount and the angle of light off the surface affects the luster of the gemstone. Some light enters the gemstone through the surface and gets refracted, scattered, and dispersed as the light exits the stone. As a light beam passes through a gem it is bent or refracted before it exits the crystal. The light beam is also broken into its component parts (dispersion) causing the effect known as "fire". This dispersion widens the beam to the point that the observer can see the full visible spectrum of the beam from red to violet, simulating a rainbow effect. As the stone is moved, the refraction and reflection points of the facets change showing the stone's scintillation or "play of color."

What is Durability (Hardness) of a gemstone?

Durability of a gemstone is the measure of hardness of a gemstone. Hardness of the gemstone is defined as the ease with which the surface of the gemstone will scratch or the gemstone will break. In gemstone industry, this term is measured by Moh’s hardness scale.

The Moh’s scale was invented in 1812, by the German mineralogist Friedrich Moh’s. Moh’s based his scale on ten minerals. Moh’s scale of mineral hardness quantifies the scratch resistance of minerals by comparing the ability of a harder material to scratch a softer material. With the Moh’s Scale, the hardness of a material is measured against the scale by finding the hardest material that it can scratch, and/or by identifying the softest material that can scratch it.

Minerals in order of hardness on Moh’s Scale

1. Talc

Talc is the world's softest mineral and the lowest mineral on the Moh’s scale.

2. Gypsum

Gypsum is a soft mineral composed of calcium sulfate dihydrate.

3. Calcite

Calcite is an anhydrous carbonate, and one of the most widely distributed minerals on the Earth's surface.

4. Fluorite

Fluorite (fluor-spar) is a mineral composed of calcium fluoride.

5. Apatite

Apatite (hydroxylapatite, fluorapatite, chlorapatite) is a group of phosphate minerals and is one of few minerals that are produced by biological organisms.

6. Orthoclase

Orthoclase (aka feldspar) in an igneous rock forming tectosilicate (silicate) mineral and is a key component in granite.

7. Quartz

Quartz is one of the most common minerals found in the Earth's crust.

8. Topaz

Topaz is a silicate or "nesosilicate" mineral created from a combination of aluminum and fluorine.

9. Corundum

Corundum is the crystalline form of aluminum oxide and one of the basic rock-forming minerals.

10. Diamond

Diamond is the hardest natural occurring material. Diamond is a natural allotrope of carbon.

What is Rarity of a Gemstone?

Natural gemstones cannot be produced in a laboratory and we have to rely on mother-nature to produce them. It takes several years sometimes hundreds of years for a gemstone to form. Availability of the gemstones also depends on the specific formation of minerals, which is effected by the temperature, pressure and chemical composition of the region. The availability of rough of the gemstone, the size of the rough found and, adds to the rarity of the gemstone.

What is Carat wt.?

The unit of measurement used to weight a gemstone is called Carat – with a “C”. It is not to be confused with karat – with a “K”, which is used to denote the percentage of pure gold.

One Carat is equal to one fifth of a gram, 1Ct. = 0.20gms. or 5 Cts. = 1 Gms.


I hope I was able to solve the mystery of what it takes for a regular stone to become a gemstone, next week, I will write about how we treat different gemstones to enhance their beauty.

The Color Trend Report - By Michele Lau



This is the time of the year when colors start to warm and change. Not only on the trees, but on the fingers, wrists, and necklines of ladies everywhere. You can see it happening in jewelry trends. The lovely warm tones and jewel tones are emerging in a way that signifies change.


There is much to celebrate this time of year with the upcoming fall and winter season. Jewelry trends explode in colors for the cold weather wardrobe that warm the spirit and the heart.

The most invigorating color trend for the fall and winter season is yellow. Generally the color we connect to bring happy, sunny times, yellow challenges the reclusive winter days and brightens your life.

The Jewelry Channel brings you refreshing gemstones like citrine, yellow sapphire, amber, and yellow diamond jewelry that will keep you on top of yellow’s seasonal jewelry trends.

A great counter point color for yellow is purple. Purple in every shade is a power statement that will be highlighted in designs with complimenting tones for breathtaking contrasts of color.

Sweet pink is also a feminine favorite for the fall and winter season. Pair it with a gray menswear suit for a softer edge. Deeper pinks and fuschia tones create a look that is strong and vibrant.

So think pink diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, coated pink topaz, rose quartz, as well as pink pearl jewelry this season for a blush of rich color.

The most popular color of them all continues to be blue. When most of us are asked what our favorite color is, we say some shade of blue. Whether it is a neutral navy or a dazzling cobalt, blue is a sure crowd pleaser.

So look for The Jewelry Channel designs to spotlight Ceylon sapphires, lapis lazuli, aquamarine, blue topaz, turquoise, blue diamonds, blue zircon, and more. Naturally, our signature gemstone, Tanzanite, will be center stage as well.

The classic wardrobe staple – black – has never looked so fashionable as it has this season! It is a wardrobe favorite that is easy to wear and never really goes out of style.

The Jewelry Channel features black gemstones to their best effect with black spinel, black onyx, black diamonds and black pearls in incredibly artistic designs. There are some really beautiful pieces showcased in our signature lines: ILIANA and Rhapsody.

Keeping with traditional favorite color trends our designers salute the perennial rich hues of pumpkin, silky gray, and chocolate brown to keep you in style and on trend. So look to caramel colored pearls, red labradorite-andesine, mysterious moonstone, smoky quartz, champagne diamonds and fire opal to remain on top of the seasonal jewelry trends.

Reinventing your wardrobe has never been so much fun!

I’ll shop with you then!

Michele Lau